ACER JAPONICUM ‘MEIGETSU’ (HARVEST MOON MAPLE)

It is an upright and strong grower reaching 2 or 3m over 10 years.

Best grown with their feet in the shade and head in the sun, in well drained, moist, neutral to acid soil, protected from cold and drying winds. Prune lightly for health but never when the sap is rising in the spring. Propagated by cuttings/grafted.

ACANTHUS MOLLIS (BIG SPINACH)

Bright green, leafy perennial, fully hardy and evergreen in mild areas. Will grow to about 3-4ft tall and across. Easy plant to cultivate. Acanthus will grow in sun or shade. It'll flower more in the sun but the leaves will look bigger and darker and shinier in the shade. The tall spikes (6ft ish) of purple-hooded white flowers appear in high summer. The carved leafy bits so characteristic of the capitals on Corinthian columns are they. Not surprising really as Acanthus grows everywhere around Corinth and evidently did 2500 years ago too.

Removal of old flowers and leaves (anything unsightly) is a great help - especially in winter. Severe frost (-4°c or below) will give the leaves a look that could be described as both glazed and floppy. It can look terminal but it's not. They recover wonderfully well as soon as the temperature rises.

PLEASE NOTE : this plant is occasionally susceptible to powdery mildew, an endemic  air-born fungus. It's easy to treat and we suggest the following action can be taken if you see the white powdery residue on the leaves. Remove as much of the affected parts as possible; clean up thoroughly and remove all rubbish from the area; spray with a general purpose ready to use systemic fungicide - one that contains myclobutanil - such as Fungus Fighter. Easy to cure. Alternatively, just remove ALL affected leaves and burn them.

ACER PALMATUM DISSECTUM (CUT LEAF MAPLE)

This is the green leafed form of Dissectum. The plant weeps more than some of the other Japanese Maples. The leaves are deeply cut and delicate and emerge in spring pale green and remain like that all summer but the autumn is one of the finest of all the Maples - bright scarlet.

It's one of the classic slow growing Japanese Maples - 10ft after 20-25 years. Any reasonably well drained soil (but not chalk) but they need light or partial shade out of strong winds.

Because they're so slow growing, they're surprisingly happy in a pot but don't allow them to dry out. This can lead to the tips browning and full recovery probably won't happen until the following year.

The most enjoyable bit about growing these (apart from looking at them) is practising your gentle Creative Maintenance skills upon them. Creating a beautifully domed and balanced head, raising the crown (removing lower branches) to display the branch structure at the base and just snipping off dead bits. Great fun.

These plants are grafted so if you see an alien sprig appearing at the base, cut it off.

N.B. When clipping several plants with the same tool, have a bucket containing a 5% bleach solution and swish your blades around for 30 seconds between plants to sterilise them. This will help avoid the chance of cross contamination of disease.

As with all woody plants, plant high, exposing as much of the taper at the base of the trunk as possible. Allowing soil to accumulate round the base of a tree can be fatal. Keep very well watered when first planted.

ACACIA DEALBATA (MIMOSA)

Fast growing little evergreen tree - the classic Mimosa with the ferny leaves. Masses of fragrant yellow flowers in spring. Requires full sun and reasonably well drained (but not chalky) soil. The flowers are yellow, fragrant and copious. They form in the autumn but don't come out until early spring, so don't prune after late summer if you want flowers the following spring. As with most trees, they're programmed to go straight up to find the light (whether they need to or not). On a young tree this can give the impression that they're destined to be tall and slender which they're not. Most Acacias reach a height of about 15-25ft and grow out. The eventual shape of a mature tree is quite squat and wide. Man appears to have dominion over most living things so you can always shin up a ladder and give it a haircut. It won't mind - just do it after flowering (April) unless you dislike the flowers in which case you can do it earlier. Left to their own devices, relatively short (25ft ish), quite broad and not dense. A marvellous tree for screening (they take your eye away without cutting all the light out) but unfortunately not reliably frost hardy except in large built up or coastal areas. If damaged in exceptionally cold winters, a well established tree will often re shoot from the base; a new lease of life.

In early March, you suddenly begin to realise how un-rare (I can't say common) these are. Clouds of yellow flowers all over the place but generally in areas whose phone number begins 0208 or 0207 or within 6 or 7 miles of the coast.
Propagated by us by seed.

N.B. When clipping several plants with the same tool, have a bucket containing a 5% bleach solution and swish your blades around for 30 seconds between plants to sterilise them. This will help avoid the chance of cross contamination of disease.

As with all woody plants, plant high, exposing as much of the taper at the base of the trunk as possible. Allowing soil to accumulate round the base of a tree can be fatal. Keep very well watered when first planted.

ALOE STRIATULA (CORAL ALOE)

There are not many of the South African  Aloes that can be grown in Britain. This one is remarkably hardy. Some of it sprawls on the ground and some of it occasionally rears up to 3ft - or more if supported by a wall. Very cold weather will kill off the tips but it recovers. I've had it growing in my West Sussex frost pocket of a garden for many years. Yellow flowers that last for many weeks during the summer. Aloe vera is famous for its effect on burnt skin. You use the sap from a cut leaf to rub on the wound. Does this one have the same effect? Probably.

Monstera deliciosa 'Thai Constellation'

While classic monstera varieties are easy (and fairly affordable) to come by at any plant nursery, these popular houseplants become extremely coveted and expensive once specialty cultivars and defects come into play.

One of the most sought-after at the moment is a varietal called the 'Thai Constellation' which features the signature white patterns on its leaves caused by lack of chlorophyll, in this case in a splatter pattern.

The 'Thai Constellation' will go for more than the 'Variegata'. Depending on the specimen and the size, it can cost several hundred dollars to upwards of $1,000, Summer Rayne Oakes of Plant One on Me shares with us.

Oakes adds she's seen cuttings go for as much as $300 to $500!

"People in general love Monstera, as it's one of those larger leaved plants with deep fenestrations," Oakes says. "But you add spatter-marked whites and yellows to the leaves—and it'll drive the price up quite readily."

Monstera deliciosa Albo Variegata

However, the 'Thai Constellation' isn't only one Monstera deliciosa variety that's considered rare and valuable.

The 'Albo Variegata,' which features large white portions on its leaves, the more and the more unique in shape and structure the better, is also going for hundreds of dollars in many shops.

"Variegated Monsteras are a top seller, which are around $200, but we've seen them go for much more than that depending on the color of their leaves," Sean Dollinger, Founder of PlantX, says. "The whiter the leaves, the more coveted they are based on a rare genetic defect."

Philodendron Melanochrysum

Slowly becoming slightly easier to come by, this variety is still considered one of the rarer and more coveted philodendrons in the houseplant community, and can be expensive, especially when reaching larger sizes.

When given proper light conditions and extra humidity, these dark green beauties can climb up to 5 feet tall indoors, with individual leaves reaching massive sizes of 2 feet long.

These huge healthy specimens will be rarer and harder to find, so if you're able to nurture a small philodendron melanochrysum into a massive houseplant over time, all the better.

Philodendron Tortum

Philodendrons come in many varieties, from the highly common and budget-friendly, to the ultra-rare collector species. This is another type that can break the bank, and be difficult to find.

They're very eye-catching, with their spreading, spike-like leaves. But they also differ from some of their philodendron relatives in their care needs. Philodendron tortums need extra space to spread, grow quickly, and do well with high humidity.

Philodendron 'Pink Princess'

One final philodendron variety is a natural inclusion on a rare houseplants list. The Pink Princess is as lovely and unique as its name suggests, and is a man-made cultivar developed in the 1970s.

Single cuttings of this plant can cost upwards of $100 and mature healthy plants can cost several hundred.

ACER JAPONICUM ‘MEIGETSU’ (HARVEST MOON MAPLE)

It is an upright and strong grower reaching 2 or 3m over 10 years.

Best grown with their feet in the shade and head in the sun, in well drained, moist, neutral to acid soil, protected from cold and drying winds. Prune lightly for health but never when the sap is rising in the spring. Propagated by cuttings/grafted.

ACANTHUS MOLLIS (BIG SPINACH)

Bright green, leafy perennial, fully hardy and evergreen in mild areas. Will grow to about 3-4ft tall and across. Easy plant to cultivate. Acanthus will grow in sun or shade. It'll flower more in the sun but the leaves will look bigger and darker and shinier in the shade. The tall spikes (6ft ish) of purple-hooded white flowers appear in high summer. The carved leafy bits so characteristic of the capitals on Corinthian columns are they. Not surprising really as Acanthus grows everywhere around Corinth and evidently did 2500 years ago too.

Removal of old flowers and leaves (anything unsightly) is a great help - especially in winter. Severe frost (-4°c or below) will give the leaves a look that could be described as both glazed and floppy. It can look terminal but it's not. They recover wonderfully well as soon as the temperature rises.

PLEASE NOTE : this plant is occasionally susceptible to powdery mildew, an endemic  air-born fungus. It's easy to treat and we suggest the following action can be taken if you see the white powdery residue on the leaves. Remove as much of the affected parts as possible; clean up thoroughly and remove all rubbish from the area; spray with a general purpose ready to use systemic fungicide - one that contains myclobutanil - such as Fungus Fighter. Easy to cure. Alternatively, just remove ALL affected leaves and burn them.

ACER PALMATUM DISSECTUM (CUT LEAF MAPLE)

This is the green leafed form of Dissectum. The plant weeps more than some of the other Japanese Maples. The leaves are deeply cut and delicate and emerge in spring pale green and remain like that all summer but the autumn is one of the finest of all the Maples - bright scarlet.

It's one of the classic slow growing Japanese Maples - 10ft after 20-25 years. Any reasonably well drained soil (but not chalk) but they need light or partial shade out of strong winds.

Because they're so slow growing, they're surprisingly happy in a pot but don't allow them to dry out. This can lead to the tips browning and full recovery probably won't happen until the following year.

The most enjoyable bit about growing these (apart from looking at them) is practising your gentle Creative Maintenance skills upon them. Creating a beautifully domed and balanced head, raising the crown (removing lower branches) to display the branch structure at the base and just snipping off dead bits. Great fun.

These plants are grafted so if you see an alien sprig appearing at the base, cut it off.

N.B. When clipping several plants with the same tool, have a bucket containing a 5% bleach solution and swish your blades around for 30 seconds between plants to sterilise them. This will help avoid the chance of cross contamination of disease.

As with all woody plants, plant high, exposing as much of the taper at the base of the trunk as possible. Allowing soil to accumulate round the base of a tree can be fatal. Keep very well watered when first planted.

ACACIA DEALBATA (MIMOSA)

Fast growing little evergreen tree - the classic Mimosa with the ferny leaves. Masses of fragrant yellow flowers in spring. Requires full sun and reasonably well drained (but not chalky) soil. The flowers are yellow, fragrant and copious. They form in the autumn but don't come out until early spring, so don't prune after late summer if you want flowers the following spring. As with most trees, they're programmed to go straight up to find the light (whether they need to or not). On a young tree this can give the impression that they're destined to be tall and slender which they're not. Most Acacias reach a height of about 15-25ft and grow out. The eventual shape of a mature tree is quite squat and wide. Man appears to have dominion over most living things so you can always shin up a ladder and give it a haircut. It won't mind - just do it after flowering (April) unless you dislike the flowers in which case you can do it earlier. Left to their own devices, relatively short (25ft ish), quite broad and not dense. A marvellous tree for screening (they take your eye away without cutting all the light out) but unfortunately not reliably frost hardy except in large built up or coastal areas. If damaged in exceptionally cold winters, a well established tree will often re shoot from the base; a new lease of life.

In early March, you suddenly begin to realise how un-rare (I can't say common) these are. Clouds of yellow flowers all over the place but generally in areas whose phone number begins 0208 or 0207 or within 6 or 7 miles of the coast.
Propagated by us by seed.

N.B. When clipping several plants with the same tool, have a bucket containing a 5% bleach solution and swish your blades around for 30 seconds between plants to sterilise them. This will help avoid the chance of cross contamination of disease.

As with all woody plants, plant high, exposing as much of the taper at the base of the trunk as possible. Allowing soil to accumulate round the base of a tree can be fatal. Keep very well watered when first planted.

ALOE STRIATULA (CORAL ALOE)

There are not many of the South African  Aloes that can be grown in Britain. This one is remarkably hardy. Some of it sprawls on the ground and some of it occasionally rears up to 3ft - or more if supported by a wall. Very cold weather will kill off the tips but it recovers. I've had it growing in my West Sussex frost pocket of a garden for many years. Yellow flowers that last for many weeks during the summer. Aloe vera is famous for its effect on burnt skin. You use the sap from a cut leaf to rub on the wound. Does this one have the same effect? Probably.

Monstera deliciosa 'Thai Constellation'

While classic monstera varieties are easy (and fairly affordable) to come by at any plant nursery, these popular houseplants become extremely coveted and expensive once specialty cultivars and defects come into play.

One of the most sought-after at the moment is a varietal called the 'Thai Constellation' which features the signature white patterns on its leaves caused by lack of chlorophyll, in this case in a splatter pattern.

The 'Thai Constellation' will go for more than the 'Variegata'. Depending on the specimen and the size, it can cost several hundred dollars to upwards of $1,000, Summer Rayne Oakes of Plant One on Me shares with us.

Oakes adds she's seen cuttings go for as much as $300 to $500!

"People in general love Monstera, as it's one of those larger leaved plants with deep fenestrations," Oakes says. "But you add spatter-marked whites and yellows to the leaves—and it'll drive the price up quite readily."

Monstera deliciosa Albo Variegata

However, the 'Thai Constellation' isn't only one Monstera deliciosa variety that's considered rare and valuable.

The 'Albo Variegata,' which features large white portions on its leaves, the more and the more unique in shape and structure the better, is also going for hundreds of dollars in many shops.

"Variegated Monsteras are a top seller, which are around $200, but we've seen them go for much more than that depending on the color of their leaves," Sean Dollinger, Founder of PlantX, says. "The whiter the leaves, the more coveted they are based on a rare genetic defect."

Philodendron Melanochrysum

Slowly becoming slightly easier to come by, this variety is still considered one of the rarer and more coveted philodendrons in the houseplant community, and can be expensive, especially when reaching larger sizes.

When given proper light conditions and extra humidity, these dark green beauties can climb up to 5 feet tall indoors, with individual leaves reaching massive sizes of 2 feet long.

These huge healthy specimens will be rarer and harder to find, so if you're able to nurture a small philodendron melanochrysum into a massive houseplant over time, all the better.

Philodendron Tortum

Philodendrons come in many varieties, from the highly common and budget-friendly, to the ultra-rare collector species. This is another type that can break the bank, and be difficult to find.

They're very eye-catching, with their spreading, spike-like leaves. But they also differ from some of their philodendron relatives in their care needs. Philodendron tortums need extra space to spread, grow quickly, and do well with high humidity.

Philodendron 'Pink Princess'

One final philodendron variety is a natural inclusion on a rare houseplants list. The Pink Princess is as lovely and unique as its name suggests, and is a man-made cultivar developed in the 1970s.

Single cuttings of this plant can cost upwards of $100 and mature healthy plants can cost several hundred.