Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia Hirta)

Type: Herbaceous perennial
Zones: 3 to 9
Dimensions: 2 to 3 feet tall, 1 to 3 feet wide
Growing conditions: Full sun; dry to medium, well-drained soil

Autumn Joy (Sedum Herbstfreude)

Type: Herbaceous perennial
Zones: 3 to 9
Dimensions: 1 to 2 feet tall and wide
Growing conditions: Full sun; dry to medium, well-drained soil

Purple Sensation (Allium Hollandicum) Flowers

Type: Ornamental onion
Zones: 3 to 8
Dimensions: 2 to 3 feet tall, 1 to 2 feet wide
Growing conditions: Full sun; dry to medium, well-drained soil

Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium Scoparium)

Type: Perennial grass
Zones: 3 to 9
Dimensions: 2 to 4 feet tall, 18 to 24 inches wide
Growing conditions: Full sun; dry to medium, well-drained soil

Prairie Dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis)

Type: Perennial grass
Zones: 3 to 9
Dimensions: 2 to 3 feet tall and wide
Growing conditions: Full sun; dry to medium well-drained soil

How to Add Plants to a Gravel Garden

Now it's time for the part you've been waiting for—putting in your plants into the gravel. For this, you'll want to use drought-tolerant native plants with deep root systems. You shouldn't plant seeds in a gravel garden, since it's harder for the roots to establish.

"When we plant, we typically use 3.5 or 4.5 inch pot size perennials, because they're about the correct depth," says Epping. "If you use a gallon pot, they're actually too big and you have to end up shaving off some soil to get them in."

Lay out your potted plants in the areas you want them to grow, keeping each about 12 to 18 inches apart.
Remove the plant from the pot and hover it over a bushel basket.
Over the basket, peel off the top inch of soil to remove any weed seeds from the nursery before planting.
Dig about 4 to 5 inches deep, past the gravel and into the soil, and insert the root ball.
Fill the area back in with soil and gravel. The gravel should touch the crown of the plant (where the stem meets the roots).

Zinnias flowers

Zinnias come in a variety of colors and grow large blooms. With full sun access, these flowers can reach up to 4 inches in height. "This is a flower we recommend giving a 'pinch' when they reach 12 to 18 inches tall to promote branching and flowering on the plant," say the O'Neals. "The more you cut zinnias, the more blooms they produce."

Do note that you should cut a zinnia when it's fully mature. The best way to tell that it's reached this point is by giving it a wiggle test, they say. Bounce the stem between your index and middle finger, and if the stem is rigid, it's ready to be cut. When the stem is floppy, it's not ready to cut and won't stand up straight in the vase. After cutting your zinnias, they will last for about seven to 10 days, however, they are known as a "dirty" flower, say the O'Neals. "Their stems are hairy, so they make vase water murky quickly," they say. "We recommend changing the water for a vase with these flowers once a day, retrimming the bottom of the stems each time."

Celosia flowers

When exposed to full sun, the celosia, specifically Celosia argantea, will grow vibrant, feathery blooms, which the O'Neals say are a great filler in bouquets. "This type of celosia can be pinched at 18 inches if you want to keep it a bit shorter," they say. Like zinnias, make sure the stem is rigid before cutting.

Salvia flowers

For a beautiful blue bloom, consider growing salvias. The Salvia blue bedder is a favorite of the O'Neals, and it can be grown as a perennial in zones 8 to 10. "Salvia serves as a supporting filler and adds a striking pop of color in a bouquet," they say. "Salvia is a bloom we give the wiggle test to, to see if it's mature to cut."

Peonies flowers

Some of the best peony varieties to grow for cutting are Paeonia lactiflora 'Vogue,' Coral Charm, and 'Baroness Schroeder,' says Speight. "Herbaceous peonies should be planted in the fall where they rise from the earth the following spring," she says. While peonies can take a growing season or two to bloom, they will grow in a variety of colorful hues.

Cosmos flowers

Producing daisy-like flowers in shades of pink, white, and red, cosmos are another great cutting flower, say the O'Neals. "Their blooms are incredibly delicate and add the sparkle element to a bouquet," they say.

While they need full sun and typically grow in the 32- to 48-inch range, cosmos can be kept at a shorter length when they are pinched at 18 inches (this promotes branching!). "Cut blooms from them regularly, or remove old blooms to promote flowering," say the O'Neals. "Cosmos should be cut when the first petal is just beginning to curl open to give them the maximum vase life."

Strawflower, Straw Flowers

These flowers grow in shades of blush, orange, red, white, and yellow, and produce paper-like petals. Since they bloom into different shapes, the O'Neals love using this as a "filler flower" in an arrangement. These can be grown as annuals in zones 2 to 7 and as perennials in zones 8 to 10. "We give strawflowers the wiggle test to make sure the bloom is mature to cut," they say. "When cut at the proper stage, strawflowers can have a vase life from seven to 10 days."

Everlasting Daisy Flowers

There are many perks to the everlasting daisy. "Also known as Rhodanthe chlorocephala, [this] is an old-fashioned cut flower that can also be used as an everlasting (meaning you can dry the blooms for use in arrangements later)," says Speight. "The paper-like blooms should be harvested when partially opened. They will finish opening after harvesting within the arrangement."

When to Mulch Your Garden Flowers

The right time to mulch a garden is dependent on what type of plant material you are mulching and the weather conditions. In general, mid- to late-spring is mulching season; this is when the soil is warming up from the freezing temperatures it experienced all winter. Mulching too early will slow down the warming process, which the soil needs to do its job.

Ferns tree

For another filler in an arrangement, consider adding ferns to your cutting garden. These typically need part shade to thrive in the garden. Once you cut and add to a bouquet or tabletop display, the greenery will add fullness, especially alongside taller plants, says Speight. "In particular, the Japanese Painted Fern (Athyrium niponicum) adds a silvery tone that can balance, blend, and soften arrangements as needed," she says. "This particular cultivar grows easily in semi-shaded and damp areas." Ferns typically last as long as the rest of the arrangement, typically between seven to 10 days, as long as it stays hydrated.

Use a Trellis

Provide a home for climbing plants by adding a trellis they can grow on. in this garden, a fragrant, disease-resistant rose climbs the latticework that screens the east-facing porch ell.

Types of Birds and Flowers You'll Attract

Whether you love the sound of songbirds fluttering across your garden, you want to bring eager pollinators to your native plants, or you’ve reached that point in life where bird watching is now one of your hobbies, there are several ways you can attract more birds to your yard.

Fill Your Yard With Native Plants

Native birds thrive on native plants. Before you think about bird feeders (which are also important!), focus on the flowers, shrubs, and trees that are naturally occurring in your region. With these, you’re providing the birds with the fruit, seeds, nectar, and insects they need to survive season after season.

Install Bird Feeders

"Supplementing natural foods with bird feeders is also a fun way to attract many species and see them up close," says Winston. Birds like cardinals, jays, finches, chickadees, and sparrows are particularly drawn to seed feeders, while suet and peanut butter draw woodpeckers and nuthatches. If you want the thrill of seeing a hummingbird up close, hang a sugar-water feeder.

Plant Native Shrubs and Trees for Nesting

Beyond supplying food, native shrubs and trees are also necessary for shelter and nesting. While birds are adaptable, they’re going to seek out the places their instincts recognize, and those are the places that will evolve to accommodate them year-round. 

"If you have a forested area in your yard, leave dead branches and snags that provide nesting places for woodpeckers, as well as other cavity-nesting species such as chickadees, titmice, wrens, and bluebirds," says Winston. "Include native evergreens to supply important shelter from the cold."