Exotic succulents for conservatories or very mild gardens. Plants produce a tall yellow pyramid of flowers. These perennial succulents can only be grown outside in the very mildest of gardens where there is danger of only slight frost and the soil is free draining. Otherwise they make excellent house or conservatory plants. If deprived of light (in winter, particularly), they loose some of their purple-ness and turn green in parts. The purple-ness returns with the return of the sun.
In their native country they sometimes seem to prefer shadier spots. They will tolerate a fair bit of our weaker British sunshine so if you have one growing inside ensure it still gets plenty of light, although not a very sunny windowsill. If grown in a pot make sure you don't over water (easily done) especially in winter and early spring before growth starts, otherwise rot quickly sets in and reduces roots to a mushy mess. However, if this does occur all is not lost. Take the remaining bits of healthy rosette or rosettes, remove the lower rotten section and place them in a seed tray filled with perlite - they should root out quite quickly. Aphids and slugs seem to be the most common pests but apart from that Aeoniums are pretty easy plants to grow and keep.
Propagated by us from cuttings.
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Paper birch (Betula papyrifera) is a fast grower with peeling white bark and leaves that turn a beautiful shade of yellow in the fall. This tree needs regular watering, especially when it's hot and dry outside or if it's planted in drier soils, says Langelo.
Japanese maples have unparalleled curb appeal and one particularly eye-catching variety is 'Bloodgood.' "It’s a wider spreading Japanese maple and the branching is quite gnarly looking in winter," says Roethling. "New leaves emerge in mid-spring to a coppery red tone before turning burgundy red for the summer." In fall, the palmate-shaped leaves turn a beautiful crimson color.
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Red lotus tree (Magnolia insignia) is an ideal plant to add as a centerpiece or focal point behind a mass of perennials. "In early summer, white, balloon-shaped buds will gradually open with reddish tones," says Roethling. "It’s a magnolia, therefore expect that soft perfume scent to permeate the afternoon air."
Fragrant snowbell (Styrax japonicus) is a small deciduous tree with extremely fragrant white spring flowers. "The flowers are little but cover every limb from head to toe," says Roethling. "It’ll make a wonderful statement as a stand-alone or in the back of a perennial bed." Its grey bark and gumdrop-like shape give the tree interest during winter months.
One of the best performers during hot, dry summers is crepe myrtle (Lagerstroemia spp.). "With so many to choose from, one can find the right color and size to best suit their garden," says Roethling. "It’s one of the last summer flowering trees to leaf out. In June, July, and August, large panicles burst—from white to many shades of red and purple." In fall, some leaves are orange, and the panicles go from flowers to small, rounded capsules. Crepe myrtle offers winter interest thanks to its cinnamon-brown bark that exfoliates and intensifies in color.
Often confused for a hydrangea, Chinese snowball viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum) is a showstopper in the front yard. "In late spring, large white flowers cover the plants so long as they are not in too much shade," says Roethling. "Some re-flowering can occur in fall. The flowers come out green and, when fully open, brighten to a giant white, snowball-like inflorescence." This tree variety does well with pruning should it begin to outgrow its space.
Flowering dogwood (Cornus florida) boats beautiful white, yellow, or pink flowers in early spring. Native to eastern North America, the blooms on this understory tree will attract butterflies and bees to your yard, while songbirds come to snack on its red fruits, which appear from fall throughout winter. Commonly found in woodland margins, flowering dogwood can be challenging to grow in a landscape setting, but its beauty is well worth the extra effort.
Zones: 5 to 9
Size: 15 to 25 feet tall x 15 to 30 feet wide
Care requirements: Full sun to partial shade; well-draining soil
Now it's time for the part you've been waiting for—putting in your plants into the gravel. For this, you'll want to use drought-tolerant native plants with deep root systems. You shouldn't plant seeds in a gravel garden, since it's harder for the roots to establish.
"When we plant, we typically use 3.5 or 4.5 inch pot size perennials, because they're about the correct depth," says Epping. "If you use a gallon pot, they're actually too big and you have to end up shaving off some soil to get them in."
Lay out your potted plants in the areas you want them to grow, keeping each about 12 to 18 inches apart.
Remove the plant from the pot and hover it over a bushel basket.
Over the basket, peel off the top inch of soil to remove any weed seeds from the nursery before planting.
Dig about 4 to 5 inches deep, past the gravel and into the soil, and insert the root ball.
Fill the area back in with soil and gravel. The gravel should touch the crown of the plant (where the stem meets the roots).
Zinnias come in a variety of colors and grow large blooms. With full sun access, these flowers can reach up to 4 inches in height. "This is a flower we recommend giving a 'pinch' when they reach 12 to 18 inches tall to promote branching and flowering on the plant," say the O'Neals. "The more you cut zinnias, the more blooms they produce."
Do note that you should cut a zinnia when it's fully mature. The best way to tell that it's reached this point is by giving it a wiggle test, they say. Bounce the stem between your index and middle finger, and if the stem is rigid, it's ready to be cut. When the stem is floppy, it's not ready to cut and won't stand up straight in the vase. After cutting your zinnias, they will last for about seven to 10 days, however, they are known as a "dirty" flower, say the O'Neals. "Their stems are hairy, so they make vase water murky quickly," they say. "We recommend changing the water for a vase with these flowers once a day, retrimming the bottom of the stems each time."