We all want easier ways to get things done. Think of the convenience of a lemon squeezer or the ease of turning on your Roomba and letting it roam free. Now, today, this moment, organizing is made SIMPLE too. All it takes is the use of this handy-dandy (bum bum ba dum!)... acronym!
Separate like-items. As you're organizing, think of your belongings in terms of their function or use and separate them accordingly. Put all of the similar items together and store them that way. By doing so, you will create "homes" for all of your goodies and you'll spend a lot less time searching when trying to find something specific.
Imagine using the item. This answers the "where does it go?" question. Just think of how and when you use the belonging that you're putting away and find a proper storage place accordingly. If you stumble upon an item that you would only use in the kitchen, put it away in a kitchen cabinet or drawer! Take a couple of seconds to picture yourself using the item being considered and you'll know just where it belongs.
Make piles. As you organize, create different piles based on where you want items to end up. If you are cleaning out a closet, you'll probably have a "donate," "throw away" and "give to a friend" pile. Keeping the piles neat will save lots of time when it comes to bagging them up and shipping them out. So don't let the stacks mesh into one massive mound.
Purge unwanted belongings. As you're organizing, consider whether or not you really need all of the items at hand. Remember that if you haven't used it in years, you most probably won't in the coming years. And sentimental items are beautiful in moderation - but the more you have, the less likely you are to look at them all. So be realistic in what you keep and what you get rid of. Don't be afraid to purge the unnecessary.
Label. As you're putting items away, make sure they are properly labeled so you'll know where to find them in the future. After all, we are creating long-term affects here. If you don't have a label maker, no worries! You can use a Sharpie marker, piece of paper and some tape to create your own label. And make sure you're being specific about what's in the storage container. Try your best to stay away from words like "miscellaneous" and "other."
End on a high note! Make sure you give yourself a pat on the back or a brownie point for getting one of your spaces organized. You deserve it for all of that hard work! Remember: the better the reward, the more likely you are to go for another round. So let the celebrations begin. Cheers!
Username: Bongsong Published on 2024-10-08 08:42:35 ID NUMBER: 122684
Paper birch (Betula papyrifera) is a fast grower with peeling white bark and leaves that turn a beautiful shade of yellow in the fall. This tree needs regular watering, especially when it's hot and dry outside or if it's planted in drier soils, says Langelo.
Japanese maples have unparalleled curb appeal and one particularly eye-catching variety is 'Bloodgood.' "It’s a wider spreading Japanese maple and the branching is quite gnarly looking in winter," says Roethling. "New leaves emerge in mid-spring to a coppery red tone before turning burgundy red for the summer." In fall, the palmate-shaped leaves turn a beautiful crimson color.
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Red lotus tree (Magnolia insignia) is an ideal plant to add as a centerpiece or focal point behind a mass of perennials. "In early summer, white, balloon-shaped buds will gradually open with reddish tones," says Roethling. "It’s a magnolia, therefore expect that soft perfume scent to permeate the afternoon air."
Fragrant snowbell (Styrax japonicus) is a small deciduous tree with extremely fragrant white spring flowers. "The flowers are little but cover every limb from head to toe," says Roethling. "It’ll make a wonderful statement as a stand-alone or in the back of a perennial bed." Its grey bark and gumdrop-like shape give the tree interest during winter months.
One of the best performers during hot, dry summers is crepe myrtle (Lagerstroemia spp.). "With so many to choose from, one can find the right color and size to best suit their garden," says Roethling. "It’s one of the last summer flowering trees to leaf out. In June, July, and August, large panicles burst—from white to many shades of red and purple." In fall, some leaves are orange, and the panicles go from flowers to small, rounded capsules. Crepe myrtle offers winter interest thanks to its cinnamon-brown bark that exfoliates and intensifies in color.
Often confused for a hydrangea, Chinese snowball viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum) is a showstopper in the front yard. "In late spring, large white flowers cover the plants so long as they are not in too much shade," says Roethling. "Some re-flowering can occur in fall. The flowers come out green and, when fully open, brighten to a giant white, snowball-like inflorescence." This tree variety does well with pruning should it begin to outgrow its space.
Flowering dogwood (Cornus florida) boats beautiful white, yellow, or pink flowers in early spring. Native to eastern North America, the blooms on this understory tree will attract butterflies and bees to your yard, while songbirds come to snack on its red fruits, which appear from fall throughout winter. Commonly found in woodland margins, flowering dogwood can be challenging to grow in a landscape setting, but its beauty is well worth the extra effort.
Zones: 5 to 9
Size: 15 to 25 feet tall x 15 to 30 feet wide
Care requirements: Full sun to partial shade; well-draining soil
Now it's time for the part you've been waiting for—putting in your plants into the gravel. For this, you'll want to use drought-tolerant native plants with deep root systems. You shouldn't plant seeds in a gravel garden, since it's harder for the roots to establish.
"When we plant, we typically use 3.5 or 4.5 inch pot size perennials, because they're about the correct depth," says Epping. "If you use a gallon pot, they're actually too big and you have to end up shaving off some soil to get them in."
Lay out your potted plants in the areas you want them to grow, keeping each about 12 to 18 inches apart.
Remove the plant from the pot and hover it over a bushel basket.
Over the basket, peel off the top inch of soil to remove any weed seeds from the nursery before planting.
Dig about 4 to 5 inches deep, past the gravel and into the soil, and insert the root ball.
Fill the area back in with soil and gravel. The gravel should touch the crown of the plant (where the stem meets the roots).
Zinnias come in a variety of colors and grow large blooms. With full sun access, these flowers can reach up to 4 inches in height. "This is a flower we recommend giving a 'pinch' when they reach 12 to 18 inches tall to promote branching and flowering on the plant," say the O'Neals. "The more you cut zinnias, the more blooms they produce."
Do note that you should cut a zinnia when it's fully mature. The best way to tell that it's reached this point is by giving it a wiggle test, they say. Bounce the stem between your index and middle finger, and if the stem is rigid, it's ready to be cut. When the stem is floppy, it's not ready to cut and won't stand up straight in the vase. After cutting your zinnias, they will last for about seven to 10 days, however, they are known as a "dirty" flower, say the O'Neals. "Their stems are hairy, so they make vase water murky quickly," they say. "We recommend changing the water for a vase with these flowers once a day, retrimming the bottom of the stems each time."