Add a touch of whimsy to your space with this charming watercolor little elephant artwork. The playful brushstrokes and lively colors bring the cute and curious creature to life, making it a delightful addition to any room. The playful and lighthearted mood of this piece will add a fun and cozy feel to your home, making it perfect for nurseries, children's rooms, or any space in need of a smile.
Baby Elephant Water Color Painting, Digital Art, Digital Print, Wall Art, Elephant Painting, Animal Painting, Gift For Her, Gift For Him
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Exotic succulents for conservatories or very mild gardens. Plants produce a tall yellow pyramid of flowers. These perennial succulents can only be grown outside in the very mildest of gardens where there is danger of only slight frost and the soil is free draining. Otherwise they make excellent house or conservatory plants. If deprived of light (in winter, particularly), they loose some of their purple-ness and turn green in parts. The purple-ness returns with the return of the sun.
In their native country they sometimes seem to prefer shadier spots. They will tolerate a fair bit of our weaker British sunshine so if you have one growing inside ensure it still gets plenty of light, although not a very sunny windowsill. If grown in a pot make sure you don't over water (easily done) especially in winter and early spring before growth starts, otherwise rot quickly sets in and reduces roots to a mushy mess. However, if this does occur all is not lost. Take the remaining bits of healthy rosette or rosettes, remove the lower rotten section and place them in a seed tray filled with perlite - they should root out quite quickly. Aphids and slugs seem to be the most common pests but apart from that Aeoniums are pretty easy plants to grow and keep.
Propagated by us from cuttings.
A slow growing small tree with green leaves and a distinctive spreading habit followed by a domed shade in maturity. Bright red autumn colour. Can reach up to 30ft after 50 years.
Position: Best grown in well drained, moist, neutral to acid soil in light shade. Protect from cold and drying winds in early spring. 'By cuttings'
Plant these en masse for maximum impact. The flowers are more much numerous but much less tall (to 4ft max) than in the huge and better known Agapanthus africanus. Drifts of them work wonders. The clue's in the name - it's an enormous amount of blue. It's also hardier than Agapanthus africanus but dies down in the winter. Flowers for several weeks during mid-summer.
Best in sun in any reasonably well drained soil.
A comparative comment on Agapanthuses : The big one (Agapanthus africanus) and the little ones (Agapanthus 'Blue Storm' and 'Snow Storm') cannot really be compared. It's tempting because they're both Agapanthuses and they both have green strappy leaves and either blue or white flowers but the big one stands alone and are so big that they can be used almost like topiary - a pair in pots either side of an entrance for example. There's no reason why you couldn't do the same with the smaller ones but the smaller ones really lend themselves to being planted in drifts - blue or white rivers wending their way through the garden. The point is, one's not comparing like with like.
It is an upright and strong grower reaching 2 or 3m over 10 years.
Best grown with their feet in the shade and head in the sun, in well drained, moist, neutral to acid soil, protected from cold and drying winds. Prune lightly for health but never when the sap is rising in the spring. Propagated by cuttings/grafted.
Bright green, leafy perennial, fully hardy and evergreen in mild areas. Will grow to about 3-4ft tall and across. Easy plant to cultivate. Acanthus will grow in sun or shade. It'll flower more in the sun but the leaves will look bigger and darker and shinier in the shade. The tall spikes (6ft ish) of purple-hooded white flowers appear in high summer. The carved leafy bits so characteristic of the capitals on Corinthian columns are they. Not surprising really as Acanthus grows everywhere around Corinth and evidently did 2500 years ago too.
Removal of old flowers and leaves (anything unsightly) is a great help - especially in winter. Severe frost (-4°c or below) will give the leaves a look that could be described as both glazed and floppy. It can look terminal but it's not. They recover wonderfully well as soon as the temperature rises.
PLEASE NOTE : this plant is occasionally susceptible to powdery mildew, an endemic air-born fungus. It's easy to treat and we suggest the following action can be taken if you see the white powdery residue on the leaves. Remove as much of the affected parts as possible; clean up thoroughly and remove all rubbish from the area; spray with a general purpose ready to use systemic fungicide - one that contains myclobutanil - such as Fungus Fighter. Easy to cure. Alternatively, just remove ALL affected leaves and burn them.
This is the green leafed form of Dissectum. The plant weeps more than some of the other Japanese Maples. The leaves are deeply cut and delicate and emerge in spring pale green and remain like that all summer but the autumn is one of the finest of all the Maples - bright scarlet.
It's one of the classic slow growing Japanese Maples - 10ft after 20-25 years. Any reasonably well drained soil (but not chalk) but they need light or partial shade out of strong winds.
Because they're so slow growing, they're surprisingly happy in a pot but don't allow them to dry out. This can lead to the tips browning and full recovery probably won't happen until the following year.
The most enjoyable bit about growing these (apart from looking at them) is practising your gentle Creative Maintenance skills upon them. Creating a beautifully domed and balanced head, raising the crown (removing lower branches) to display the branch structure at the base and just snipping off dead bits. Great fun.
These plants are grafted so if you see an alien sprig appearing at the base, cut it off.
N.B. When clipping several plants with the same tool, have a bucket containing a 5% bleach solution and swish your blades around for 30 seconds between plants to sterilise them. This will help avoid the chance of cross contamination of disease.
As with all woody plants, plant high, exposing as much of the taper at the base of the trunk as possible. Allowing soil to accumulate round the base of a tree can be fatal. Keep very well watered when first planted.
Fast growing little evergreen tree - the classic Mimosa with the ferny leaves. Masses of fragrant yellow flowers in spring. Requires full sun and reasonably well drained (but not chalky) soil. The flowers are yellow, fragrant and copious. They form in the autumn but don't come out until early spring, so don't prune after late summer if you want flowers the following spring. As with most trees, they're programmed to go straight up to find the light (whether they need to or not). On a young tree this can give the impression that they're destined to be tall and slender which they're not. Most Acacias reach a height of about 15-25ft and grow out. The eventual shape of a mature tree is quite squat and wide. Man appears to have dominion over most living things so you can always shin up a ladder and give it a haircut. It won't mind - just do it after flowering (April) unless you dislike the flowers in which case you can do it earlier. Left to their own devices, relatively short (25ft ish), quite broad and not dense. A marvellous tree for screening (they take your eye away without cutting all the light out) but unfortunately not reliably frost hardy except in large built up or coastal areas. If damaged in exceptionally cold winters, a well established tree will often re shoot from the base; a new lease of life.
In early March, you suddenly begin to realise how un-rare (I can't say common) these are. Clouds of yellow flowers all over the place but generally in areas whose phone number begins 0208 or 0207 or within 6 or 7 miles of the coast.
Propagated by us by seed.
N.B. When clipping several plants with the same tool, have a bucket containing a 5% bleach solution and swish your blades around for 30 seconds between plants to sterilise them. This will help avoid the chance of cross contamination of disease.
As with all woody plants, plant high, exposing as much of the taper at the base of the trunk as possible. Allowing soil to accumulate round the base of a tree can be fatal. Keep very well watered when first planted.
